Amiga Plus 1995 #2/Amiga Plus CD - 1995 - No. 2.iso/internet/faq/englisch/rec.games.pinball

Text File | 1995-04-11 | 28.0 KB | 598 lines

Archive-name: games/pinball/part1

Changes since last time:
    New price for "Play Meter"
    New address for the Pinball Archive ftp site

This is the first half of the monthly posting for rec.games.pinball.
If you have any comments, additions, or suggestions for this posting,
please contact the editor, Andy Oakland, at [e-mail].

There's an ftp archive for the newsgroup at ftp.mcs.com
in /mcsnet.users/sigma/pinball.  This is maintained by Kevin Martin,
[e-mail], and contains rule sheets and a wealth of other information.

There's also a WWW (World-Wide Web) site, the "Pinball Pasture," maintained
by David Byers.  It's located at "http://www.lysator.liu.se/pinball/".

Also, the FAQ editor (that's me!) has finally joined the Web!  You can
find my personal web page at "http://www.mit.edu:8001/people/sao/home.html".
And with luck, I'll soon have an illustrated FAQ online!

----------------------------------------------------------

Frequently Asked Question number one:  "How do I buy a machine?"

Buying a pinball for home use has a lot in common with buying a car: It is
a big investment, the item requires proper care, and the business is filled
both with honest, decent people and sleazeballs.

=========================================================================
===============  Decide what sort of machine you want  ==================
=========================================================================

Games available for home purchase fall into three categories: Used electro-
mechanical, used solid-state, and new (all new games are solid-state). Which
is right for you depends on what you want, how much you're willing to spend,
and whether you ever intend to sell or trade the game.

Think a bit about why you want a game. If you want it to play, chances
are that you want a solid-state game.  They play faster, and the software
has features that could take you some time to uncover.

If you're looking for something to tear apart, down to the bare wood, and
build back up again (only better), buy an electro-mechanical.  Doing the
fix-up on a solid-state game wouldn't be as fruitful--At some point,
you'd be staring at an IC-laden circuit board, and that's way beyond
cleaning contacts and tightening springs.

Aside from knowing why you want a game, you should zero in on which game you
want. The market is fat with choices, and there is a fair chance that,
if you look in the right places, you can eventually find what you want. But
you can't go into the market saying, "Oh, just find me something you think
I'll like." It goes deeper than issues of color and whitewalls or no: You
will fare best if you have a wish list of games you are interested in.

How much will it cost?  It depends on the popularity and rarity of the
game, the condition of this particular machine, and whether or not you live
in California.  (Not a joke ... Prices run higher in The Golden State!)

A semi-functional older solid-state machine can be had for as little as
$100, while a new game fresh from the factory runs about $3500.  Typical
price for a game that's seen a couple years of use would be $400-$1000.

An electro-mechanical game can run anywhere from $150 to $750, with
real collector's items (like Humpty Dumpty) significantly more.

If this is your first machine, it's highly recommended that you get a working
one!  Picking up a cheap junker may be tempting, but you'll never get it
going without experience, specialized equipment, and a stock of spare parts.
Try to buy from someone who'll deliver it in working condition, and stand
behind it for a while.  Ask for references!

=========================================================================
=======================    Go looking for one   =========================
=========================================================================

The path a pinball machine travels typically looks like this:

Manufacturer--->Distributor--->Operator--->Collector or junkyard

Unless you have very deep pockets, you won't be buying your machine
from the manufacturer or distributor.  Operators are the ones who
put machines out in the field and maintain them...They're usually
willing to sell used machines once they stop pulling in the quarters.

Go to your favorite machine in the field, and ask who owns it.  If the
location doesn't, there's probably a sticker on the machine pointing you
to the operator.  Another way to find operators is to hit the Yellow Pages,
and call up the companies listed under "Amusement Devices."  First ask
them if they sell machines for home use, then ask for the specific machines
you're looking for.

You can also buy machines from collectors.  In fact, this is pretty much
the only way to go to find an Electro-mechanical.  You probably aren't
going to find an EM in the field, or with an operator.

For both EM's and solid-state machines, the little ads in periodicals like
Game Room are an excellent source of leads.  (See list of periodicals
below)  Also, you can try to find something locally.  Buy every newspaper
you can, including the little "nickel ads" type, and check the classifieds.
Keep doing this for months.  Takes time, but good deals occasionally pop up.

You can also find a "broker," a sort of super-collector in business
to buy up old used games, fix them up, and resell them.  Again, you can
reach these people through publications like Game Room Magazine

Also, believe it or not, check with a dart supply store!  I know of two
in my area (Boston) which sell used pins, and at least one Norwegian
store does.

=========================================================================
=======================     Publications        =========================
=========================================================================

There are many periodicals good for getting background information
on the pinball world, and for contacting other collectors.  The first
two, pinGame journal and Game Room Magazine, are probably the best ones for
those interested in home games.  Both of them are sporting slick new
logos, which is probably a good sign of health!

pinGame journal
31937 Olde Franklin Drive, Farmington Hills, MI  48334
Written by pinball collectors.  Includes info about new games in
development, as well as articles on finding, reconditioning, and playing
older games.  Subscription includes one free classified ad per month.
Often includes cool plastics and flyers.
$30/year for US, $34/year Canadian, $63/year European(air), $74/year
Pacific Rim (air), $36/year Pacific Rim(surface).  Sample issue $3.50.

Game Room Magazine
1014 Mount Tabor Road
New Albany, IN  47150
A monthly hobbyist publication, covering pinballs, slots, jukeboxes, Coke
machines, neon, etc.  High proportion of advertising.  Lots of pinball
articles, now that they've picked up the Pinball Trader subscribers.
$24/year for US, $30/year Canadian, $48/year European(surface),
$84/year European(air), $52/year Pacific Basin (surface), $92/year
Pacific Basin(air).  Sample issue $3.

The Flipside
81 Carrar Drive, Watchung, NJ 07060
Bimonthly just getting started, written by fans and collectors, many of whom
are r.g.p.  regulars!  Includes reviews of new games, articles about pinball
and pinball players, and a national high score list.
$18/year for USA, $28/year for Canada/foreign.  Sample issue $3.

Coin-Op Classics
17844 Toiyabe Street
Fountain Valley, CA  92708
Bimonthly, editted by Dick Bueschel.  I haven't seen an issue, so I can't
make any comments here.  Any suggestions?
$48/year for US, $57/year for Canada.

Play Meter
PO Box 24970, New Orleans, LA 70184
Thick, slick trade journal, mostly aimed at arcade owners and operators.
Provides uniformly glowing reviews of the latest games.  Covers crane
games, kiddie rides, etc., as well as video and pinball.
$60/year, sample issue $5.

RePlay
P.O. Box 2550
Woodland Hills, CA 91365
Another monthly trade magazine with the same content as Play Meter.
$60/year, sample issue $5.

Coin Slot
4401 Zephyr St., Wheat Ridge, CO  80033-3299
A quarterly covering all collectible coin-op machines. $28/year.
The publisher, Donald Hoflin, can be reached via E-mail at [e-mail].

Distributors Research Associates
197 S.W. 20th Way, Dania, FL  33004
The DRA Price Guide lists "average" prices of games, jukeboxes, and
vending machines that are actively traded on the distributor level.
Note that this does not include games more than a few years old.
$75/year for 4 skinny issues and 4 even skinnier updates.

Canadian Coin Box
NCC Publishing, 222 Argyle Ave., Delhi, Ontario N4B 2Y2 Canada.
$38/year, sample issue $3.50.

Coin-Op Newsletter
P.O. Box 2426, Rockville, MD  20852
A bimonthly hobbiest publication.  Covers antiques and coin-op collectables.
$24/ten issues.

=========================================================================
=======================     Manufacturers       =========================
=========================================================================

    Alvin G. & Company (Alvin Gottlieb, without the rights to his name!)
        905 W. North Ave
        Melrose Park, IL 60160
        tel: [phone]
        fax: [phone]
        toll free: 800-858-flip

Sadly, Alvin G. & Company has gone out of business.  I'm keeping the
company listed, though, in case people want to send fan mail or obtain
spare parts for existing machines.

        Data East Pinball Inc.
        1990 Janice Avenue
        Melrose Park, IL 60160
        tel: [phone]
        toll free: 800-kickers

        Premier Technology (Includes Gottlieb and Mylstar)
        759 Industrial Drive
        Bensenville, IL 60106
        tel: [phone]
        fax: [phone]
        toll free 800-444-0761

        Williams Electronic Games Inc. (Includes Bally and Midway)
        3401 North California Avenue
        Chicago, IL 60618
        tel: [phone]
        fax: [phone]
Archive-name: games/pinball/part2

This is the second half of the monthly posting for rec.games.pinball.
If you have any comments, additions, or suggestions for this posting,
please contact the editor, Andy Oakland ([e-mail]).

Frequently Asked Question number two:

I've got this pinball machine.  Now what do I do with it?  (Besides
play it, of course!)

Steven Craig ([e-mail]) maintains an up-to-date list of
pinball machines and their owners (the PAPS list), so that other net'ers
can find people who have a specific game.  He posts it to rec.games.pinball
monthly, or you can email him for a personal copy.  If you have recently
bought a machine, he'd be happy to add you to the list!

=========================================================================
=======================      Playfields         =========================
=========================================================================

Playfields come in three flavors:  Mylared, non-Mylared, and Williams'
"DiamondPlated" fields.  Mylar is a sheet of clear plastic laid over
the playfield to protect it.  Mylar can get grubby, and slows down play...
Some pinball purists remove the Mylar and keep their fields well waxed.

For Mylared playfields, you can use "Endust" or something similar.  If
your game is already in good condition, it does just what you want, and
without that annoying waxy buildup!

Williams field service suggests cleaning DiamondPlate playfields with
Novus Plastic Polishes #'s 1 and 2.  #1 to clean and repel dust, #2 to
remove fine scratches.  Or you can simply wipe the field clean with a rag
and some glass cleaner.  KIT carnauba wax is also reputed to be good.
Call Novus at [phone] for a distributor in your area.  Brady
Distributors (see bottom of FAQ) and some plastics supply houses carry Novus.

By the way, Williams does not recommend "Wildcat" wax on DiamondPlate
playfields, as it can seep under any mylar pieces and dissolve their
adhesive.  It can also cloud clear ramps, with repeated use.

Maintaining your non-Mylar playfield is more complicated.  There are special
waxes made for this, such as "Mills" and "Wildcat," which are available
at distributors or via mail-order.  (See list of suppliers below)  Wax
protects the playfield's paint, and provides a smooth, fast, surface for
the ball to roll on.

A dirty playfield should be "dry wiped" with a soft rag before the first
cleaner/wax application -- that much less dirt to get trapped in the wax.
Do NOT clean playfields with water!  Lemon Pledge is reputed to be an
excellent general-purpose cleaner; you can also clean up the playfield
plastics with it, and use it to freshen up a game that's alread got a
good coat of wax.

If you want get ambitious and remove your Mylar, Brian Millham
([e-mail]) offers the following advice:

    "It turned out to be a BIG, MESSY job, but it was worth it!
    The best method that I found was HEAT.  I simply took a hair dryer
    and heated up a portion of the Mylar, starting from an easy to get
    to edge, and peeled it up.  Once you get it started, the job is fairly
    easy, but slow.  Let the heat do its work.  Don't overheat the
    playfield, but also don't pull the Mylar up too fast.  You don't want
    to pull up any paint with it!

    "Once you have removed the old Mylar, you are probably only half done
    with the job.  You now will need to remove the glue that was left
    behind.  This is the fun part :-)  I ended up using Milwax and
    lots of elbow grease.  Once you start cleaning off
    the glue, you will find that it looks like you are making a bigger
    mess than you had.  Don't worry, it will start coming clean.
    Oh, did I mention to have LOTS of cloths to do this part?

    "It played like a whole different machine!  And it looked better too.
    The Mylar leaves a dull finish.  A waxed playfield looks nice and
    bright.

Also, there are solvents available to dissolve the glue...I've seen these
work with magnificent results.  Michael Knudsen ([e-mail])
reports:

    "I just heard from a serious pin restorer that that Blue Stuff
    (called CP-100 by Gemini Inc in Michigan) really dissolves that
    gunky glue that holds down Mylar sheets.  Not only cleans it up
    in short order, but will even soak under the edge of a Mylar sheet
    (like around a bumper or ramp) and loosen it right off the playfield!
    So now The Blue Stuff has its special niche in pin work.

If you want to do playfield touchup, you can use Testor's paint.  You'll
find this in the plastic model section of your local toy store.  There
are some new Testor's paint pens on the market, too, which work well.

Lettering can be either retouched by hand, if there's enough to salvage, or
completely redone with rub-on letters.  Art supply stores have the latter.
Before retouching the playfield, be certain to clean well and remove all
the old wax!  Brian Casper has used grain alcohol with good results.

You can build up height in worn or chipped spots by using multiple coats
of paint.  Be sure to allow plenty of time for each coat to dry, and finish
up with coats of polyurethane spray.

Deeper gouges and holes in your playfield can be patched with "Bondo," a
product typically used for repairing car bodies.  Bondo should be applied
to the bare wood; beware of getting it on playfield plastics, as its
solvents may attack them.  It is very hard after it cures, so you should do
as much shaping of the area as possible while it is still malleable.  Once
it dries, you need to use a power sander to smooth it out.

To fill in stripped screw holes and the like, you can use "Plastic Wood"
to provide a new surface for the screws to grip.

=========================================================================
=======================        Flippers         =========================
=========================================================================

If your flippers seem feeble, have a look at the contacts on the buttons
and the coils themselves.

The flipper coils are actually two coils in one.  One is the relatively
high-current one to initially fire a flipper, and the other is the lower-
current one for holding a flipper up.  The high-current coil is supposed
to cut out at the end of a stroke, leaving the lower-current coil to hold
the flipper up.  If the high-current coil isn't firing, the flipper will
move very feebly.  Conversely, if the high-power coil is constantly
energized, you're likely to fry the coil or blow a fuse.

How this is done depends on the age of the machine.  On older machines,
(Pre-Dr. Dude, 1990) it's done in hardware with a normally closed end-of-
stroke ("EOS") switch which opens at the top of the stroke and puts the
low-power coil in series with the high-power one, reducing the total
current and protecting the high-power coil.  If the contacts on this switch
are bad, the high-power coil won't get full power, and the flipper will be
feeble.  If the switch opens too soon, the flipper will be deenergized
too early.  But if it doesn't open at all, you risk burning out the coil.

Cleaning and adjusting these contacts, as well as the contacts in the
flipper buttons, will fix many flipper problems.  See the directions for
contact cleaning under "General Cleaning Tips" below.

Most modern machines use "solid state" flippers, which use software to control
the strength of the flip.  The most important difference is the fact that the
end of stroke switches are normally open, and close when the flipper reaches
the end of stroke.  When the player presses a flipper button, the flipper
controller board energizes both the high-power (50-volt) and low-power (25
volt) coils.  When the flipper closes the EOS switch, the controller board
shuts off the 50 volts, leaving the 25-volt coil to keep the flipper up.
The practical upshot of all this is that the switches, being low current, do
not need as much care.  Also, the flipper buttons may be replaced by optical
switches, again reducing the necessary maintance.

A sluggish flip may also be caused by a dirty flipper sleeve.  Remove
the sleeve and clean it and the plunger.  DO NOT USE LUBRICANTS on
the flipper sleeve; they will pick up gunk and eventually clog things
back up again.  Replace the sleeve if it looks really worn.

A melted sleeve should warn you to check the EOS switch and make sure
the high-current coil is cutting out on cue.

You may also have a worn coil stop or plunger, causing the flipper
to pull in too far.  And eventually, the end of the plunger will
"mushroom" from hitting the coil stop thousands of times, making the
end fatter and causing friction as it moves through the sleeve.
Best bet here is to replace the plunger.

If you need new contacts, sleeves, plungers, or whole coils, you can order
replacements from the sources listed below.

Flippers in many electromechanical (EM) machines are driven by AC, so there
tends to be some buzzing associated with them.  This is normal.

=========================================================================
=======================     Drop Targets        =========================
=========================================================================

To clean drop targets, hold the target up by hand, or remove it entirely,
and use a moist soapy rag or Q-tip.  Anything nastier than soap may harm
the paint or plastic.  Again, test on an inconspicuous place first.

If your drop targets aren't resetting properly, check to see if the
lip the target sits on is rounded off.  If so, file the plastic lip (on
the target) flat again or replace the target.  Also, check that the reset
solenoid is pulling in all the way so that the targets are coming up to
the correct height.

If the targets don't register when they drop, try cleaning the contacts
as described below.

=========================================================================
=======================  General Cleaning Tips  =========================
=========================================================================

If this is a machine you've just bought, by all means vacuum out all the
insides, carefully.  Don't suck up any stray screws, small springs, or
other objects...They might be useful!  Watch out for the various service
instruction sheets stapled around the insides.  If you find any mouse
droppings, check carefully for wires and cables gnawed thru so neatly
that you can't see the gaps!

Radio Shack Color TV Tuner Cleaner is a good all-around cleaner and
lubricant, even for non-electrical items like solenoid plungers and
shooter plunger shafts.  Don't get it all over the playfield though,
as it's conductive and can confuse a solid-state machine.

Intermittently flickering bulbs may be helped by bending the socket
slightly out of round with needlenose pliers (with the bulb out!) to make
the grounded shell fit tighter.  Use TV tuner cleaner to slip the bulbs
in and out easier.

You can use a business card to clean switch contacts.  If necessary,
use Freon, rubbing alcohol or some such solvent on the card to soften
the crud, and use a dry card again afterwards.  High-current contacts,
such as the ones on flipper buttons, may require harsher measures.  Look
for a "contact burnisher" at your electronics shop or hardware store.
Never use these on the gold-plated low-current contacts, though, as
they'll destroy the plating and lead to corrosion.

If some switches aren't firing, or are firing sporadically, check the
spacing between the contacts ("Dwell and Gap").  Bally recommends
1/16th of an inch.  You can adjust the spacing by bending the stiff blade
that's between the two conductive ones.

=========================================================================
=======================     General Books     ===========================
=========================================================================

The following books are recommended for pinball fanatics:

"Pinball--The Lure of the Silver Ball," Gary Flower and Bill Kurtz,
Chartwell Books.  General overview of pinball history, from EM's to solid
states.  Color hardcover, great pictures.  ISBN 1-55521-322-7.

"Pinball 1," Richard Bueschel.  History of early games, guide to rating
condition of games, descriptions and photos of many pre-1960 machines.
Emphasis on EM or pre-electric machines.  B/W softcover.  ISBN 0-86667-047-5.

"Pinball Art," Keith Temple, H.C. Blossom Publishers.  History of pinball,
focussing on backglass art.  Absolutely gorgeous pictures.  Includes a list
of pinball artists and their machines, and a "notoriously inaccurate"
(according to David Marston, [e-mail]) list of pinball
milestones.  ISBN 1-872532-10-1.

"Pinball," Paul Zsolnay Verlag, 1992, originally published in German by V.I.P.
Reprinted in the US by Chartwell Books and in the UK by Tiger Books.
General (though not completely accurate) overview of pinball
history, from 1930's to present.  Hardcover, 80 pages, mostly pictures
without explanation.  Includes German games from the 30's and woodrails
from the 40's to 50's.  ISBN 0-7858-0071-9.

Most of the books listed above are out-of-print and can't be found at your
local bookstore.  However, the following people sell them by mail:

AMR Publishing, though they specialize in jukeboxes, sell schematics
and service manuals for an odd collection of older pinball machines,
as well as many of the "coffee table" pinball books listed above.
Box 3007, Arlington, WA, 98223.  [phone].

Harold Balde ([e-mail]) has a stock of "Pinball," (US $20)
"Pinball Art," (US $25) and "Lure of the Silver Ball" (US $25) for sale, as
well as other books on jukeboxes and slot machines.

Mayfair Amusements (see listing below, under parts sources) sells
some manuals and books.

Also, Rick Botts of Jukebox Collector Magazine, is rumored to carry
some books.  [phone].

Larry Bieza puts out an annual "Pinball Price Guide," listing price ranges
and guidelines for estimating value for Gottlieb, Williams and Bally machines
from Humpty Dumpty up to the early 1980's.  $12.00 from 1446 Albany Ave,
St Paul MN, 55108.

=========================================================================
====================      Manuals and references     ====================
=========================================================================

For guides to maintaining machines, you can try the following:

Pinball Troubleshooting Guide, Russ Jensen.  For upkeep of electro-
mechanicals.   Can be ordered directly from author;  $19.95 to
1652 Euclid Av, Camarillo, CA, 93010.

The following reprints of 1960s-vintage service guides are available
from Paul Midtdal, 1-3755 Cambie St., Vancouver, BC, CANADA V5Z 2X4:
[Williams] Introduction to Coin-Op Amusement Games, $12.
An Introduction to Bally Flipper Games, $8.
Gottlieb Instruction and Service Manual $10.

"Pinball Machines: How they work & troubleshooting," Norbert Snicer
ISBN 0-646-11126-4.  Available from the author for $40 Australian.
Norbert Snicer, PO Box 622, Randwick NSW 2031, AUSTRALIA.


=========================================================================
==============  Sources for parts, machines, etc.      ==================
=========================================================================

The following sources have been used and recommended by a variety of people
on the net.  (I've used several of them myself)  For many more sources,
read the ads in the periodicals recommended in part one of the FAQ.

WICO is a reliable source of parts for all sorts of coin-op machines,
but a little expensive.  Tried marketting their own pinball machine
a while back, but it flopped.  Catalog costs $10.  [phone].

Two-Bit Score Amusements provides circuit board repairs for Bally, Stern,
Williams, and Data East pins after 1977.  Can supply and install game
and sound ROMs; sells reprinted shop manuals with schematics as well
as specialized testing chips and text fixtures.  Austin, Texas.
[phone] (voice), [phone] (FAX), [e-mail]

Eldorado Products sells copies of manuals for $29.
Long Beach, California, [phone].

Betson's sells anything related to arcade games and vending machines.
Ask for the parts department.  [phone].

Donal Murphy runs EWI, an inexpensive source for coils and some plastic
parts.  He manufactures new bumper caps and drop targets using the original
molds.  Chicago, Illinois, [phone].

Steve Young has a good supply of miscellaneous EM parts (wiper/stepping
units, motors, flippers, pop bumper skirts, springs, score reels, etc.)
He also stocks parts for recent machines, and can order obscure items
directly from Williams.
Lagrangeville, New York.   Eves:[phone]   FAX:[phone]

Nick Cochis at Pintronics specializes in Bally and Stern solid state
machines.  He repairs and sells circuit boards (CPUs, driver boards,
displays, sound boards, etc.)  He also sells copies of manuals for
Bally and Stern machines.  Canton, MA.  [phone].

Steve Engel at Mayfair Amusement Company carries staples like coils, rubbers
and light bulbs.  They also do board repairs, have parts and documentation
for older machines, and carry a mammoth (6K+) selection of backglasses.
Ridgewood, NY.  [phone].

Dan Gulley has apparently spun off from Two-Bit (see above) and specializes
in Gottlieb parts and repair.  [phone].

Colorado Game Exchange sells whole machines (both pinball and video,
we'll forgive them for the latter), though their quality can vary.
[phone].

Birmingham Vending in Orlando, Florida, sells parts by mail, does board
repairs, and sells whole machines.  [phone].

Brady Distributing Company in Charlotte, N.C., sells Novus Plastic Polish
(and other supplies, I assume!) [phone].

-----------------------------------
For readers in the UK:

The Pinball Owner's Association has a new address:
POA, PO BOX 122, Cambridge, CB1 4AH, England. You can contact David Blake,
the Treasurer, by email:  [e-mail]  They have revived
their magazine, and provide spare parts.

An authorised Williams distributor, though they don't like dealing with
small orders, is:

DEITH LEISURE LTD.
Unit 2, Industrial Estate, Leigh Close
New Malden, Surrey, KT3 3NL, England
0181 336 1222 (voice)
0181 336 1487 (fax)

SUZO, 182C Park Avenue, London, NW10 7XH, England.  Telephone [phone].
They sell through a catalogue with minimum orders of ~25. (Sorry if that
attempt at a Pound sign doesn't work!) Credit cards accepted.

'Pinball Paradise' is especially good for getting parts for old games, etc.
Unit 1, Greysmere Mews
Beacon Hill Road
Hindhead
Surrey GU26 6NR
01428 606116 (voice)
01428 606106 (fax)